Brighter yellow-gold. Very complex, Burgundian aromas of roasted nuts, minerals, lemon candy, smoke and faint sulfides; conveys a strong impression of soil character. Very rich but unevolved in the mouth, with plenty of acidity. Slightly aggressive on the finish today, perhaps because there a bit less finishing flesh, but long and subtle. The yield here was about three tons per acre, vs. two for the McCrea.

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The 1996 Chardonnay Durell offers citrusy, tropical fruit, and mineral aromas, medium body, excellent richness, and a long, tangy, tight but promising finish. It should unfold with another 1-2 years of bottle age, and last for 5-6 years. All the Kistler Chardonnays are made in a Burgundian manner. They are barrel-fermented, given full malolactic fermentation, extensive lees stirring, racked out of their barrels following a year's cask aging, and allowed to settle in tank until bottling, which usually occurs without any fining or filtration. All of the wines reviewed in this segment were tasted from tank as they were awaiting bottling early next year.

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This is a delicious mouthful of Chardonnay. It's big, bold, rich and creamy, brimming with tiers of flavor--vanilla, pear, anise, fig and melon--and finishing with harmonious notes of smoke and nectarine. 2,847 cases made.

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