I tasted six dry Tokay-Pinot Gris offerings from Zind-Humbrecht and one Vendange Tardive. As the enthusiastic notes that follow reveal, it is a toss up as to whether Riesling or Pinot Gris was the more successful varietal in 1995. The slightly sweet 1995 Tokay-Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal reveals a honeyed botrytis character. The wine is massive, with full body, unreal extract and fruit, as well as exceptional purity and equilibrium. The extract levels of ZH's Pinot Gris are high, yet the harmony among the wines' elements is impeccable. This wine would do wonders with such duck or goose liver dishes as foie gras. It should drink well for two decades.

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Intriguing. Aromas of acetone (from botrytis), coffee, white chocolate and spice turn to orange and vanilla in the mouth. Racy, but tails off on the finish and just misses the concentration and intensity to be outstanding. Still, a lovely wine, and it should improve with age.

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