($150; a library release) Full ruby-red, a bit pale at the rim. Sappy cherry, black raspberry and roasted plum on the nose. Surprisingly broad and smooth in the mouth, with suave flavors of berries, tobacco, lead pencil, cedar and loam nicely framed by an edge of acidity. I like this wine's subtle balsamic quality. Quite supple in the mouth but has plenty of energy. Finishes with firm, integrated tannins. A lovely drink.

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Cabernet Sauvignon is king at Togni, and they are wines of extraordinary concentration, flavor dimension, and aging potential. The 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon, a vintage that produced a number of top-notch wines (as well as some with rough tannin and muted personalities), is one of the year's bright shining successes. The wine displays an opaque purple color, as well as a lavishly intense nose of blackberry/blueberry/cassis fruit intermingled with chocolate and olive nuances. Dense and fruit-driven, with awesome levels of glycerin and extract, this formidably endowed, moderately tannic wine should be at its best with another 7-8 years of cellaring. Once again, Philip Togni has produced a wine with 25 or more years of aging potential.

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Marked by a strong cedar and tobacco flavor, this wine veers into spicy bell pepper and herbaceous territory yet holds on to its currant-laced core of Cabernet flavors. Firmly tannic, complex and concentrated, it needs aeration and may always be on the tannic side.

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