($350) Pale watermelon-orange color. Nose dominated by red berry notes of strawberry and raspberry, with hints of earth and minerals; seemed to go into a shell in the glass. Penetrating-verging-on-painful if not yet as complex as some past vintages of this wine, with delicate red berry flavors framed and intensified by the brisk acids of the vintage. Utterly primary, precise rose, with a very long, stony finish. This extremely unevolved wine has the acid spine and intensity to gain steadily in complexity over the next 10 to 20 years. Schieffelin Somerset New York, NY)

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The Dom Perignon Rose often does not perform well until around ten years of age, and the 1995 is revealing a bold, medium pink salmon color followed by broad berry notes intermixed with a smoky/earthy character. Rich, full-bodied, backward, and tannic, it should hit its peak in 2-3 years, and last for a decade thereafter. Readers should remember that the 1971 Dom Perignon Rose is still drinking exquisitely. I recently had the 1969 and 1970 Dom Perignons (from magnum), and both were drinking brilliantly. It makes one realize just how long-lived these wines can be. Production is confidential, but there must be hundreds of thousands of cases of Dom Perignon since it available in most of the world's luxury hotels and restaurants.

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This sensual, flower-meadow-scented, cream pastry wine needs many years to itself to enter into the loveliest, fully matured stage spiced with exoticism, but what does that matter? Let us be ravished by its hedonistic charm and drink the drops of pleasure in its tender youth.

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Full-bodied and rich, this finely textured '95 reveals dried citrus, berry and tobacco notes on a muscular frame. It's well-balanced, yet needs some time to mellow. Ideal with light meat or poultry dishes, or lobster.

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