Initially reticent nose opened to reveal vibrant aromas of orange zest, smoky oak, and iodiney soil tones. Ripely citric flavors are quite intense but slow to open. Juicy and very rich. Firm structure and lively acidity give this chardonnay terrific cut. Very long spicy, citric finish. Deserves at least a couple years of bottle aging.

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The ostentatious 1995 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard is produced from a Carneros vineyard well-known as a source of grapes for Kistler and Marcassin's Chardonnay. Several other wineries produce terrific Pinot Noir and Syrah from the Hudson Vineyard. I could have mistaken the 1995 Hudson Vineyard Chardonnay for a Batard-Montrachet from the likes of Louis Latour. The wine possesses an open-knit, lemon custard, honeyed, tropical fruit, buttery-scented nose, and stunningly rich, ostentatious flavors that tease the palate with remarkable purity and intensity. Low in acidity, but fabulously rich, full-flavored, and mouthfilling, this is a profound California Chardonnay.

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Young and crisp, with a flint, citrus and pear core, it's tightly wound and sharply focused.

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