Smoky nose is slightly dulled by SO2 A bit bony in the mouth, with rather tart acidity currently dominating the fruit. This filled in nicely with aeration, but I still don't get the sweetness or delineation I normally find in this wine.

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Because of the release program employed by Kistler, the 1995 Chardonnays are now coming on the market. My scores of those wines are as follows: 1995 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch (93). Readers should recognize that Kistler's policy is to sell most of their production directly to consumers and restaurants. Readers who live in states that permit direct shipment of California wines should be sure and get on the winery's mailing list.

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A smoky, earthy style that's a bit heavy-handed, but the core of fruit is intense and concentrated, with rich fig, pear, anise, hazelnut and cedary oak.

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