Mild, delicious, and surprisingly mellow. I usually recognize Champagnes that have not gone through malolactic fermentation straightaway, by their bouquet. There is nothing here of the usual prickliness that denotes these types of wine in their youth. Ten percent oak is a rather nice spice here. Fine development through the years.

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Like biting into clover honey spread on whole-grain toast, with a subtle hint of berries, this is developing well, contrasting maturing flavors with a freshness provided by its lively structure. Fine, lingering finish.

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A rich mature Champagne with a very elegant mousse. Full-bodied with notes of bread dough and Christmas spices. Great complexity and depth with lengthy finish.