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Author: Richard Juhlin
The most expensive young champagne in the world comes from a tiny, magical, walled-in plot of 0.68 hectares in the middle of Ambonnay. 3,000 euros per bottle does not seem to frighten off the Krugists since all of the 3,000 bottles have already been reserved. The wine itself is fantastic first and foremost because it is clearly a brother to the other siblings in the Krug family. The wine breathes far more of Krug than of Ambonnay in precisely the same way as Clos du Mesnil does in its way. It feels as though all the Krug wines receive a final little spray of Krug perfume that distinguishes them from everything else independent of where they are grown. It does not matter if others copy their methods with small oak barrels, no malolactic fermentation, 12 years of storage and other technicalities. Krug they can never copy anyway. I think that Clos dÂ´Ambonnay is very reminiscent of the ordinary vintage wine and is surprisingly enough only marginally more full-bodied than it. A blanc de noirs with insane elegance far distant from any ungracefulness. Its freshness and the phenomenally long aftertaste are probably the most striking things about this magnificent wine. The bouquet is opulently creamy with a hint of hazelnut and brioche along with papaya jam and mango. The flavour balances between a fairytale mellowness and a soundness like the 96. A new world-class wine has been born.
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