Deep red-ruby. Roasted aromas of animal fur, blackcurrant, smoke and pepper. Supple, peppery and very concentrated, with lovely sweetness and pliant texture in the middle palate. Has a compellingly sapid quality. Finishes very long and sweet, with thoroughly ripe tannins. Absolutely delicious Hermitage, and showing no signs of shutting down in bottle.

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The 1994 red Hermitage appears to be superb. Last year it tasted like a richer sibling of the 1985. This year it tasted significantly richer, but with the 1985's softness, elegance, and precocious appeal. The wine possesses a black/ruby/purple color, an intense, smoky, cassis, and mineral-scented nose, full body, superb density, a soft attack, good grip, and a long, impressively endowed finish. It is a wine of undeniable power, spice, tannin, fruit, silk, and fat-what else can you ask for? It should be drinkable by the year 2000 and last for 25 + years.

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This Rhône red is intensely perfumed with the inky spiciness so unique to Syrah, then firm and concentrated on the palate, with loads of ripe blackberry, anise and smoke flavors. Rich yet polished, it marries traditional structure with modern fruit. Approachable now, but better with age. 3,500 cases made.

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A tough year but this bottle has nothing to be ashamed about, a little rigid, that's all.