On my recent trip to California, the 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve was much more closed than when tasted on the East Coast in several recent horizontal tastings. It appeared less explosive, but extremely full-bodied, rich, and concentrated, yet restrained and in need of 4-5 years of bottle age. Perhaps I caught it on a bad day, but it is an outstanding wine which I have rated as high as the mid-nineties. On this occasion, it performed like a young, tannic Bordeaux from a top vintage - splendidly concentrated, pure, and rich, but oh, so backward. All things considered, there is plenty to be excited about at the Robert Mondavi winery.