($230-$275) Full ruby-red. Wild, exotic aromas of crystallized redcurrant, leather, tobacco and minerals; distinctly exotic, even overripe. Then lush, sweet and opulent, with an atypically velvety texture for Montrose. But extremely young and structured, finishing with powerful tannins and great grip and length. Almost California-like in style; in Bordeaux, they'd refer to the fruit expression of this wine as "original," which is not necessarily high praise.

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This is a famous wine, though not all bottles seem in perfect condition. At first, the nose was not utterly pure and precise, but it seemed to clean itself up in the glass. It was definitely sweeter and richer than any Montrose I can think of and was pleasing, flattering and easy to drink with some very fine tannins and just a little dustiness on the finish.

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In several tastings last year, the 1990 Montrose clearly revealed its incredible complexity and massive character. I was especially pleased when, at a large lecture I gave in London at the end of March, the 1990 Montrose, in very tough company (Cheval Blanc 1989 and 1990, Pichon-Lalande 1989 and 1990, Certan de May 1989 and 1990), proved the over-whelming choice of a crowd of nearly 400 British tasters. The wine is remarkably rich, with a distinctive nose of sweet, jammy fruit, liquefied minerals, new saddle leather, and grilled steak. In the mouth, the enormous concentration, extract, high glycerin, and sweet tannin slide across the palate with considerable ease. It is a huge, corpulent, awesomely-endowed wine that is still relatively approachable, as it has not yet begun to shut down and lose its baby fat. It thoroughly embarrassed the 1989, itself an exceptional wine. The 1990 needs 10 more years of cellaring; it should last for 25-30, possibly 40-50 years.

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Dark in color with decadent aromas of ripe fruit, earth and amazing mint and spearmint undertones, yet there's also an underlying meaty funkiness. Full-bodied, with layers of very ripe fruit and velvety tannins. Massive and caressing. A big, powerful wine. Like velvet.--Non-blind Chateau Montrose vertical. Drink now. 22,000 cases made.

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