Disgorged June 2006. So very long period on lees. Dream vintage because there was nothing to do. 63% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay. 3% oak fermentation. 11.2% at harvest.Quite firm gold. Some putty and mushrooms on the nose. Quite toasty, lemony, lively and broad. Definitely zesty even though there is weight too. Very complete with great force and direct acidity. Big and bold without being at all sweet. Wonderfully complete. Some floral notes. One to drink now with great pleasure.

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The Louis Roederer 1990 Cristal is awesome! A classic of power and finesse, richness and delicacy, it may be the greatest Cristal I have ever tasted! One caveat. Champagne, more than any wine in the world, is extremely vulnerable to heat. Pierre Rovani has already tasted a cooked bottle of this wine. Readers need to be particularly careful when buying Champagne.

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A classic Cristal that is sometimes more open and a bit fatter than the '89, but is mostly a bitingly acidity, unreleased wine. There is the same delightful aromatic spectrum, with Roederer's typical toffee tone and rich but varied fruit. Big bottle variation probably due to the partial avoidance of malolactic fermentation. Absolutely wonderful lately.

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You won't soon forget this vivid and expressive Champagne. It packs in compound layers of citrus, vanilla, pear and nutmeg that harmonize and linger on the finish. Bright acidity makes it extra refreshing and layered. It has really opened up since last year. 25,000 cases made.

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Alas, getting past its prime, fading but certainly drinkable.