($346) Extremely fine mousse Deep, musky aromas of grilled nuts, ginger, earth and minerals. This would be almost painful in its concentration were it not for the wine's extraordinarily fine-grained texture. Extremely powerful but wonderfully ripe, with thick, sappy flavors of hazelnut, minerals and baking spices, plus a hint of toffee. Endless nutty, yeasty finishing flavors mount slowly and inexorably. This is great wine that just happens to have bubbles--as rich and complex as a great Montrachet. (Clicquot Inc., New York, NY)

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The 1990 Clos du Mesnil captures the warmth and opulence of the year, yet preserves fabulous minerality and freshness. It is a beautifully balanced, harmonious wine that delivers on so many levels. There is plenty here to satisfy both the intellectual and purely hedonistic senses. Layers of fruit build effortlessly to the seamless, glorious finish. This is a dazzling Clos du Mesnil.

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I have harbored enormous expectations for this wine. The foremost vintage in recent years combined with—in my opinion—the world's foremost vineyard. I was initially disappointed when the wine exhibited a relatively coarse side, with oxidative notes of maturity akin to the Salon of the same vintage. After a while, clear and unexpected aromas of papaya and melon arose. This wave was followed by a spicy breeze, laden with juniper elements. The oxide note disappeared and the taste suddenly felt keenly acidity and slightly one-dimensional. After fifteen minutes in the glass the wine finally found itself. Suddenly, it became incredibly subtle and multifaceted, just as it headed into its last and—in my opinion—best phase: the "Selosse Phase!" Never before have I found a wine with a scent reminiscent of the 1986 Selosse that I had six years ago. The last sips were like rekindling an old love in a new body. The fascinating wine journey on which this Champagne will take you will be shortened the longer you wait before opening a bottle. On the other hand, those who are patient will drink a significantly better wine. One year after launching, the wine is much more stable and now totally in its "Selosse Phase."

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A seductive mosaic of biscuit, honey and walnut oil lead to baking bread and citrus in this masculine, youthful Champagne. Very tightly wound and bracing at the moment, this needs time (and food) to open up and reveal all its charms. More muscular and rigid than the elegant '88. 1,200 cases made.

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