Among Gaja's three single vineyard Barbarescos, the most compelling is the Sori San Lorenzo. The 1990 is a massive wine with a staggering yet unevolved nose of herbs, hickory, smoked meats, cedar, and red and black fruits. Spectacularly concentrated, with layers of flavor, this dense, blockbuster wine should be cellared for 4-6 years and drunk through the first two or more decades of the next century.

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Elegant, ripe and polished, positively glowing with violet-tinged blackberry, currant and black cherry aromas and flavors, many-layered, complex and utterly seductive, a seamless wine that just melts across the palate. Nothing but greatness ahead. 830 cases made.

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Still looks young, prefectly smooth and balance.