I always find the Costa Russi to be the most New World-like of Gaja's Barbarescos, often resembling a hypothetical blend of a great California Zinfandel and a stunning French, small new oak-aged Chateauneuf du Pape. The 1990 Costa Russi displays the tell-tale Nebbiolo character in its thick, rich, jammy, black-cherry-scented nose, complemented by wonderfully fragrant aromas of grilled vegetables and sweet vanillin from new oak. Deep and full-bodied, with chewy, unctuous, concentrated flavors, this is another awesome Barbaresco. It will be approachable in 2-3 years and last for 20-25.

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Big and brilliant. Black-ruby color. The wine shows blueberry, floral, mint and spice aromas that follow through to the palate, with racy, silky tannins and a long, long finish. Enjoyable now, but better with age.--Piedmont retrospective. 830 cases made.

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