Deep red-ruby. Knockout, Bordeaux-like aromas of cherry syrup, plum, chocolate, mocha and brown spices, plus a faint vegetal complexity. Sweet, smooth and ripe, if not quite as dense as the extraordinary '91. Excellent acidity gives the flavors lovely clarity. Finishes firmly tannic and very long. Extremely suave wine.

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In a blind tasting, both the 1990 and 1991 wines were identified as being French by all eight tasters. I pulled these wines from my cellar to insert as ringers, so I was particularly miffed at not getting their origin correct. In retrospect, I suppose I was somewhat surprised by just how great the 1990 performed in comparison with the profound 1991. I mistakenly thought the 1990 was a Medoc, with its cedary, spicy, tobacco, blackcurrant-scented nose, sweet, full-bodied flavors, high tannin, and low acidity. It is a superb Dominus that may be just beginning to close down. Rich and powerful, it is capable of lasting for 20+ years.

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Deeply flavored, rich and complex, with tiers of currant, coffee, spice and chocolate. While it's young, intense and tannic, it's developing a supple texture, which allows the flavors to glide through on the finish. Cellar short-term. 4,600 cases made.

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