Ruby-red. Sauvage yet extremely youthful aromas of dark berries, leather, minerals and spices; some high tones quickly dissipated with aeration. Huge, thick, extravagantly rich Hermitage; harmonious even if it still closed in the middle. Extremely unevolved dark berry flavors and a deep core of spice are complicated by notes of wild game and roasted plum. Extraordinary combination of power and finesse. Finishes with explosive length and big, thoroughly ripe tannins.

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Very dark and masculine and dry with more acidity than the Chapoutier 1990 and 1991 tasted alongside. Tarry and thick and magnificently ambitious... Real old-fashioned Hermitage - history in a bottle. Very lively through the density but none of the lushness of the Chapoutiers. My dinner guests said they preferred the Jaboulet 1990 but I noticed it was the Chave decanter that was drained.

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The 1990 is spectacular.

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Such rich fruit, jammed with plum, herb, licorice, meat, spice and tar flavors, that you almost overlook the muscular tannins and think you could drink it now. Don't. This wine is concentrated and built to age. Wild and distinctive, it's a beautiful representation of the northern Rhone at its best. 2,500 cases made.

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A stunner, at it's prime, loaded with dark fruit, spices and mild white pepper.