Wine Spectator | 90
Thick, dark, dense and concentrated, this packs a wallop with intensely flavored, firmly tannic currant, earth and cedar notes. So young it tastes like a barrel sample, but it fits the Dunn Napa Valley style and is a success. Cellar. Best after 1997. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 2,500 cases made.
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Decanted for sediment a few minutes before serving. Two-tone aspect in the glass: Mature looking center with comparatively bright and youthful rim. Correct, and restrained, aromas redolent of St. Estephe. In the mouth, surprising balance and freshness (most 1989 Napa Cabs seem somewhat over the hill these days). Fruit in gentle transition to secondary; a clear impression of soil tones; medium body; acid and alcohol assertive but not the least intrusive; just enough remaining background tannin to furnish a canvas. Over two hours the wine steadily firmed up and became more focused and, if anything, more classical in a left-bank sense. Impressive bottle from a vintage I'd more or less given up on, although obviously this producer makes very long-lasting wines.
PS - after posting the above note I read several other recent CT comments that account this wine on its last legs. Our bottle was striking for its energy and vibrancy -- the flabby, decaying-soup, "stays coming undone" character of many '89s being completely absent. I bought it at auction six years ago and assume it must have been perfectly stored before then.