($370) Full color. Extremely fine, persistent mousse. Extraordinary mineral bath of a nose, complicated by pungent lime, iodine, peppermint and coconut; calls to mind a top Montrachet. A superconcentrated wine of incredible palate-staining intensity. Notes of toast, lemon and minerals. With its combination of powdered stone and powerful acidity, this is like a solid in the mouth, and almost painful today. Nearly a minute after swallowing this wine (spitting it is virtually impossible), the flavor had barely begun to flag. Not an easy style (this will be too powerful for some), but one of the most memorable young Champagnes I've ever tasted, and as good as virtually any chardonnay from anywhere.