($220; note reprinted from Issue 93) Ineffable yeast autolysis aromas (biscuit, meal, nuts) virtually resist characterization; reminded me of a great Chevalier-Montrachet. A wine of extraordinary depth of flavor, vinosity and class, thanks to penetrating but perfectly harmonious, lipsmacking acidity. Quite dry but with wonderfully ripe fruit. Very firm and youthful on the finish, but already displays explosive flavor. A great vintage for Krug. (Clicquot Inc., New York, NY)

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Opening out on the nose now - no longer the austere, slightly green aromas it once had. Something between blossom and mushrooms. Very Chardonnay. Rapier-like, marked acidity and very crystalline. Very persistent. RK cited the examples of the 1981 and 1982 vintages and 1961 and 1962 as being other examples of sequential and very different vintages like 1988 and 1989. Delayed 3 years release ~ '69. No longer available as this wine is now being aged for release as part of the Krug Collection.

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Opulent hazelnut, brioche and apple strudel aromas on the nose with a faint whiff of chalk dust. The palate is restrained and notably taut for Krug with high acidity and tightly wound roasted nut, stone fruit and toasted croissant flavours. Fine, frisky bubbles and a long praline finish. Tasted January 2009.

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It's that time again! How do they do it? Together with Remi Krug I first tasted this '88 beside the unbelievably good '89 and could hardly believe my taste buds when they sent the message that the '88 was even better. At Krug they themselves compare the wine with the '81, the '55, and the '61. Personally, I compare it to the '66 and the ultra elegant '79. The finesse is unbeatable and the acidity very noticeable. This is a wine that is going to be enjoyed by our grandchildren. Most people probably discourage immediate consumption of this young wine, but I am of a different opinion. I believe that a little bit of the subtle feeling of "tears of joy" disappears when the wine matures. I hope this explains the unusually stingy point differential between today's points and the potential maximum rating.

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A superb Champagne and still youthful. Honey, ginger, lemon confit, coffee and mineral aromas and flavors come to mind, all kept focused by a firm, tightly wound structure. The finish is where its pedigree shines through, lingering like warm gingerbread and coffee.

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