Medium-deep, amber-edged red. Superripe aromas of blackcurrant, plum, cedar, game and truffle; at once less complex and less evolved than the '84. Large-scaled, dense and fat; bigger and broader than the '84, with a compelling gamey sweetness. Rather massive in the context of Monte Bello, and developing slowly. Finishes very long, with big but fine tannins that spread out to suffuse the palate.

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Along with the Dunn Howell Mountain and Chateau Montelena 1985s, Ridge's Monte Bello is among the most backward wines of the vintage, but it is so promising. I do not intend to touch another bottle before 2005 - it is still that youthful and closed. It offers a good education in what great young wine is all about. The beautiful ruby/purple color exhibits no signs of age. The sweet nose of cassis fruit, lead pencil, flowers, and minerals is followed by a full-bodied, opulent wine with a boatload of tannin. This huge, massive yet well-delineated and focused wine should prove to be uncommonly long-lived.

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