As I have noted many times before in these pages, the '85 is a fine La Tâche but well short of profound with lovely spice but completely mature aromas and nicely complex, fully resolved flavors and a long, fine and pure finish. There is no benefit to holding the '85 further and even from magnum format, I would be inclined to begin looking for occasions to enjoy it; to be clear, it's not in decline but it is as good as it's ever going to be. Consistent notes as this is a wine that I have tasted more than 20 times.

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PRODUCTION: 1,624 cases. A brilliant wine from cask, the 1985 La Tache remains expansive and fragrant, but bottle age appears to have given the wine more delicacy and lightness. The color is an extremely light ruby, with no signs of age. The nose offers up gobs of sweet, overripe red and black fruits intertwined with smoky, toasty new oak. On the palate, there is sweet, jammy fruit, full body, a harmonious interaction of tannin, acidity, and fruit, and a luscious, silky-textured finish. Given my high praise for this wine, I would have hoped for more, but performances such as this are further proof that Burgundy is indeed the wine for free-spending masochists. This wine should continue to drink well for another 5-7 years, but it needs to be closely monitored given the fact that in 1995 it exhibits less weight and depth than I would have anticipated. Although it is unquestionably an outstanding wine, I had hoped for something riveting.

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Red to brown center, orange edge. Seductive fruit and spice bouquet, with fleeting notes of cherry, kirsch and rose. Warm and spicy on the palate, elegant yet sumptuous, showing fine length and harmony. This turns more acidic and fragile after about an hour in the glass.--La Tache non-blind vertical.

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mmmmm. Yummy.