($240): Full, deep red. Spicy aromas of cassis and rose petal, with a whiff of meat. Then wonderfully penetrating and classy, with bright acidity giving the wine superb clarity and thrust. This has terrific structure. Finishes very long and fine, with excellent grip. By far the finest bottle I've tasted to date of this wine, and one of the real surprises of the tasting. (My second bottle showed roasted redcurrant, leather, meat and smoky oak on the nose; and a sweet, suave, broad palate without quite the structure and grip of the first sample. But this wine, too, offered compelling sweetness and rated 91 points.)

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Looks mature. Sweet and glossy. Slight fox fur tinge. Lively, but slightly disjointed. Tough end. Very, very chewy.

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This wine has turned out far better than predicted. The 1982 has become more delineated and put on weight. The 1982 is a juicy, complex, Pomerol-inspired effort with abundant black cherry and black currant fruit presented in a medium to full-bodied, plump, straightforward style. Fleshy, fresh, and lively, it should be consumed over the next 7-10 years.

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A well-crafted red with beautiful structure. Dark ruby-garnet in color, with a lot of violet and earth aromas. Full-bodied, with loads of silky tannins and a long, sweet fruit finish. Has always been outstanding.--1982 Bordeaux horizontal. Drink now.

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past prime. needs over an hour to open