($225) Red-ruby. Highly aromatic nose of raspberry, redcurrant, graphite, licorice and cedar. Leanish, dry and classic, with firm acidity but less flesh than the '96. Lovely traditionally made claret, with terrific finesse and grip. Still evolving. (A second bottle showed a somewhat leathery nose and came across as drier in the middle palate; it was not quite as fresh as the better sample.)

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This traditionally made, old style, extremely dense, powerful wine requires another 7-10 years of cellaring. An opaque dark garnet color is followed by aromas of sweet cedar, old wood, truffles, smoke, and underbrush. Big, thick, juicy, black currant, and cherry flavors can be found in this muscular, monster-sized, exceedingly tannic, dense, backward wine.

Immensely impressive for its size, strength, and structure, this 1982 requires another 5-10 years of cellaring. It is unquestionably one of the most concentrated wines of the Medoc, and it should last another 30-40 years.

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At its peak. Medium-dark ruby, with an amber edge. Cherry, coffee and cedar aromas. Medium-bodied, with sweet berry flavors and caressing, velvety tannins. Delicious, but slightly disappointing for this chateau.--1982 Bordeaux horizontal.

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At Talulahs Table paired with Meadowset Lamb Three Ways Wine showed very well tonight with 3 hours of air. The wine is perfectly mature, delicious and incredibly complex. Big black current and dark cherry flavors are perfectly balanced. Perfect with the lamb