($625-$695) Dark red, with an amber rim. Liqueur-like aromas of plum, roasted meat, mocha, tobacco, truffle and burnished oak. Fat, lush and smooth, with explosive fruit and powerful underlying backbone. Massive but not at all heavy. Wonderfully tactile wine, finishing with big, chewy-but-ripe tannins and great persistence. (My second bottle showed even more class and delineation, and rated 98.) Drink during your lifetime.

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Not especially dark. Bright mid red with some definite evolution at the rim. Fairly light nose at first. Very fragrant and even charming for a Latour! Very subtle and intriguing on the nose. Great depth and savour. This wine gets better and better towards the end of the tasting experience. It really fans out on the finish. Still some quite noticeable tannin on the very end. Still quite firm though it should be fine with food - but I'd expect it to outlast all 1982s with the possible exception of the Las Cases - if the latter ever comes round.

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As I indicated in the review of the 1982 Bordeaux, this is an unusual Latour in the fact that it has always been precocious. It has been jammy, forward, and delicious no matter when the cork was pulled, in total contrast to its two first-growth siblings, Mouton Rothschild and Lafite-Rothschild. The dense, opaque garnet-colored 1982 Latour reveals slight amber at the edge. Sweet, smoky, roasted aromas in the nose combine with jammy levels of black currant, cherry, and prune-like fruit. It possesses extraordinary concentration and unctuosity, with a thick, fat texture oozing notes of cedar wood, tobacco, coffee, and over-ripe fruit. Low acidity as well as high alcohol (for Bordeaux) give the wine even more glycerin and textural chewiness. The finish lasts forever. The only Latour that remotely resembles the 1982 is the 1961, which has a similar texture and succulence.

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Big and chewy. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, long currant, berry and cherry character. Underrated. Still more to come in this wine.--Bordeaux retrospective. Drink now.

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Crimson in color. Medium rim variation. Slow legs. Cedar. Dates. Tobacco. Medium/Full bodied. Satin-like texture. Silky. Long finish. Truly a religious experience.