($190-$315) The bottle in the blind flight was corked. Second bottle: Impressively saturated dark red. Exotic, slightly candied aromas of raspberry liqueur, roasted meat, coffee and chocolate. Wonderfully sweet and mouthfilling, but the wine underlying minerality adds to the impression of lift and grip. Spreads out impressively to saturate the palate. A compelling example of this wine, finishing with strong but fine tannins and terrific verve. But the '61 is even richer.

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Sweet liquorice aroma with light spice and slight leather and undergrowth, getting more leathery quite quickly. Leaner and tighter on the palate than the nose suggested thanks to the marked – only just balanced – acidity. With time, more minty. (JH)

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Dark plum-colored with purple nuances, this complex 1982 reveals notions of cedar, allspice, black raspberries, blackberries, and currants. Expansive on the palate, with superb density, low acidity, full body, and a juicy, fat, mouth-staining mid-palate, this youthful Pomerol is approaching full maturity. Powerful and concentrated, it will evolve effortlessly for another 15-20 years.

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flat and spent