($345-$360) Full, deep red. Exotic aromas of roasted red berries, cherry, roast coffee and menthol. Ripe, dense and sweet, with inviting earth, truffle and chocolate flavors lifted by a whiff of tobacco leaf from the cabernet franc component. Impressively full in the mouth, but with the faint leafy edge contributing to the impression of firm structure. An impressive bottle.

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The Philadelphia tasting was the finest showing yet for this wine, which has been forbiddingly tannic, backward, and broodingly difficult to assess for much of its life. In the blind tasting, I thought it was Lafleur, and came close to giving it a perfect rating. Although still youthful, it has turned the corner and is emerging from its closed state. A murky, dense, opaque garnet color is followed by spectacular aromatics of roasted herbs, smoked meats, cedar, prunes, black cherries, and black currants. Rich, powerful, and full-bodied, with a thick, unctuous texture, considerable fat and glycerin, and dazzling concentration, Certan de May has not produced a wine of such intensity, thickness, and aging potential since their 1949, 1948, 1947, and 1945. It is accessible, but do not mistake that for maturity. This 1982 demands another 5-6 years of cellaring; it should age easily for 30+ years. It is a modern day classic, and unquestionably the finest Certan de May I have ever tasted.

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Rather closed. Very dark ruby color, with a slight amber edge. Intense blackberry, earth and chocolate aromas. Full-bodied and chewy, with lots of berry and dark chocolate flavors. Full and velvety yet slightly hard, astringent tannins. Still needs time.--1982 Bordeaux horizontal.

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