1998 Ornellaia - Masseto Merlot - Italy - Tuscany - Bolgheri - Red

Tasted along with the 1995. This was a complete let down. More alcohol, meaning more modern style. Lacked balance and complexity, some merlot flavor. For the price of this bottle am horrified. The 95 was excellent, and 95pt merlot, this one, can't pass 90.

1998 was arguably a better vintage in the Tuscan coast than its more renowned sibling vintages 1997 and 1999, as I believe the performances of Masseto and Sassicaia demonstrate nicely. The age of the Merlot vines used in Masseto (which receives Ornellai's best Merlot fruit on the estate) was at its oldest in 1998, as younger plantings were introduced in the 1999 vintage. It is hardly news to state that Italy has had more success with the Merlot grape than anyone ever imagined, showcasing some of the world?s finest examples in Messorio, Galatrona, Montiano and Redigaffi. Picking the most profound example can be as excruciatingly difficult as watching a child sift through their dreams on Sant's lap, deciding which toy they want for Christmas. The 1998 Masseto is nothing short of spellbinding. Perhaps the inkiest, most opaque expression of Merlot that I have ever seen, which is no small feat (although I rarely care about color)! The perfume of this wine is to die for, a veritable showcase of spearmint, cedar, boysenberry jam and freshly brewed espresso roast. The blatantly brooding palate has authoritative but sensual flavors of Valrhona chocolate, plum cake, currant and freshly paved road tar that seem to linger on the palate for longer than a minute. While the body is powerful, it never seems to be entirely massive due to its impeccable balance and refined sense of grace. A jaw-dropping example of that takes the Merlot varietal to new heights